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4th Jun

2015

A Culinary Intersection – Feb. 1990

img_2146The south of France and Conyers aren’t as far apart as you might imagine. That’s because at the Green Street Café [Seven Gables Restaurant], Alain Bouzoubaa is bridging the two cultures with his own style of cuisine.

Into regional American recipes, he’s incorporating classic French touches into the seafood, chicken and beef dishes served in a warm and griendly ambiance.

Mr. Bouzoubaa, who has worked as a banquet manager for Ritz Carlton in Buckhead and manager of the Savannah Fish Company downtown, was born in southern France. He trained in European hotels and restaurants beginning when he was 13, when he began his career as a dishwasher.

Mr. Bouzoubaa was named a certified chef by the French government in the 70’s. Theirs is a required apprenticeship, he said. “In the final examination, a committee of six watches you perform, judging you within guidelines of health, nutrition and sanitation.”

At 25, he was “imported” to be maitre d’ at a country club in Aiken, SC. After two years, he came to Atlanta where he was assistant manager of the Capital City Club.

Le Depot Restaurant in Conyers was the last place where he was a purveyor of French cuisine before opening his own casual café. “It’s a wonderful town, and the people are so friendly,” he said.

His menu is diverse, with entrees of incredible combinations. Everything is prepared in the kitchen, he said, from piroshky of California snails to ice cream truffle and beignets.

Mr. Bouzoubaa butchers his own cuts from whole beef. He filets whole salmon himself and serves it with orange hollandaise, red and green fettucini for dinner.

When I dined there for lunch, I chose crab claws San Francisco, a combination of stone crabs, breaded and stuffed with shrimp and bamboo shoots. It was ideal for lunch and attractive, a blending of Oriental and French cuisine, since it was covered with a cream béchamel sauce.

Other fare of various styles includes Louisiana blackened chicken and Italian specialties like lasagna and ravioli. Servings of entrees like roast beef are hearty lunch items covered with gravy and served with steamed potatoes, Brussels sprouts and carrots.

At dinner last week actor Carroll O’Connor and his wife were seen there, eating stir fried beef and chicken, fresh snapper and sea trout. Many of the acting and production staff from the TV series, “In the Heat of the Night,” currently on location in Covington are regulars.

Other dishes include chicken Wellington, which combines ham, mushrooms, leeks, wrapped in puff pastry with orange almond sauce and linguine is an evening a favorite.

Desserts – pears poached in Grand Marnier, and a chocolate truffle filled with praline ice cream – prompted swooning. There’s also cappuccino from Rockdale County’s biggest, brassiest machine.

A Culinary Intersection
Sarah Clark, Staff Writer
THE ATLANTA JOURNAL & CONSTITUTION
Feb. 1990

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